The ageless taste of the young republic for 74 years – present

If you want to diet, run away immediately; Because it is the oldest and highest quality patisserie in Ankara, Bogazisi patisserie …

The 120-square-meter garden, kitchen and interior hall in the republic’s capital, Ankara, serves five generations, including 12 workers and a standard regular; And after struggling with many difficulties and shortcomings as an operator ..

It begins with Ali Yarmkaya, who was born in 1927, that is, from the first generation, who is actually the subject of the story. It’s been 6 years since we lost him; But the second and third generation carried the flag.

Atila Yarmkaya, son of Ali Bay, is the second generation operator of the place. Incredibly gentle; Just as hospitable. I don’t want to gain weight and go; But it is impossible not to mention Mr. Atilla and this taste.

We chat a little and he starts saying …

Atila Bay’s grandfather was a farmer in the Orta district of Kankiri; Kazim Karabekir’s bodyguard during the war. Baba Ali Yarmkaya came to his older brother, who worked at Ulus Hale, to attend the teacher’s school in 1939. She could not read due to lack of money and a few months later she started working at Sardan Confectionery, a famous shop in Ulus.

He starts mingling with sugar, when he gets bored with it, he goes out for a walk in a market, sees Bogazisi patisserie, and is immediately hired as an apprentice. She saves money because she sleeps in the bakery; But not knowing that the pastry shop, where this money started today as an apprentice, will settle him in the future … He learns his pastry making, with intelligence and hard work, paying attention to every step of the way, from flour to whipping cream. However, like all other patisseries, the place was frequented by students from Ankara Girls High School and Ataturk High School in those years. All the innocent dates directed towards love and marriage are given in this patisserie with lemonade and cookies. Ali Bay is even ordering the execution of former finance minister Hassan Polatkan, who was sentenced to death in a May 27 coup.

The path of a boss from a beginner

After military service, Bogazisi Patisserie went bankrupt. One partner, Mustafa Bay, opens another patisserie called “Sirin Bogazisi”, but a few years later they turn into a restaurant and a beer house and disappear completely. The other partner also needed money to keep the “Bogazisi Patisserie” alive, and Ali Bay partnered with the 8,800 TL he collected during his apprenticeship. So he is the boss. The story begins at Scratch at 25 Polar Street. The year is 1948. During his military service at Maltape Central Command, his life was spent in pastry shops, as he was constantly taking orders from pastry shops to the military; It never leaves a basket of bread, as you know.

A range of customers from Selal Buyer to Kazim Karabeki

Next to the pastry; They are almost brand name for cakes, puddings, burdens and confectionery. Selal was a regular in the bear load. When Kazim Karabeki remembered that he was an associate of Ali Bay’s father, his income was high and he kept a big tip. Muzain Senar and Atila Ilhan are among the customers.

Ali Bay married in 1951, giving birth to Atila Bay and Kamal Bay.

In 1966, they went bankrupt because of their partner and they sold the store at 60,000 TL, but the debt was 80,000. Atilla Bay was then 14 years old. What do we do? How do we get things going? They are thinking. They sink into debt and work as a family until the morning. They sleep two hours a day and run shops with big sacrifices. Mr. Atilla left school to work in a pastry shop, and he decided to go to the ministry and sell pastries.

That store survives with a strong ECVit love for insects

How did you do it at this age? I say. ‘ ‘I don’t know,’ he says. “My idea was my business skills.” The store does not have the capacity to make pastries, they work as a family, have no staff, have a lot of debt. It is a good idea to sell less pastries here. Prices are high in parliament and in the cabinet, but Ali is only a 14-year-old boy and the road breaks as soon as he carries that big tray on his head.

In the years that Ecevit CHP was elected General Secretary. The donut, who was ordered during a meeting at the State Planning Organization, went to Isevit’s office and ordered, “Let’s take so much every day.” Ali Bay kept the price high so that it would not be accepted; Because the amount of donuts they order is much more than the daily production and they have no staff. That price is accepted and what do we do again, how do we save? Meetings between families. The news was sent to Orta district of Çankırı; “Come urgently,” he said. Together production increases.

Of course, Mr. Atila’s curiosity about cakes, pastries and pastries is natural; Apparently he will run this shop in the future. He went to Istanbul for 6 months. They say, “Dolapade has Master Mario.” An Italian Jew and worthy. They started using what they learned there in the store and became the strongest patisserie in the capital.

“Well,” I say, “what were the years of the coup like?” Right-wing groups and student dormitories were nearby, named Ahmetler Caddy, “Attila said.” “I am in the 68th generation and my father did not send me to university because he was afraid he might get me involved.”

The most difficult was the 1974 Cyprus landing. The reaction of the Greeks and their flight; Ban on some products!

“Finding chocolate, chewing gum, mahogany and cocoa was a problem. Mihel Usta, owner of Babel Chocolate in Istanbul, has promised to find us products. He also gave me an ice cream machine. We make and sell ice cream under primitive conditions with manual power. Believe me, you still can’t find that taste today, “he says, looking happily. He is happy to remember those days. They moved to their current location in 1976; right next to the old store. It remained as a workshop; a few years later. , They moved the workshop to a new location and now have a huge hotel in place of the old one storey store.

What I am wondering is: does the taste change with the change of master? You have a standard that you must meet. How do you succeed? Its masters have worked for 46 years; But he learned everything when he did an internship for 6 months instead of leaving. Thus, they keep the same hand odor. But Mr. Ali and Mr. Atila both entered the kitchen and found themselves in the flour until a while ago. Maybe it’s an emotion.

When I say, “Come today, on a more recent date,” he says that he was a saw-pastry and regular at this place during the years when Bullet Ersoy came on stage at the Ankara Casino. In the past, Kızılay was always a house; Consists of one storey building and family. The entire Kızılay and Meşrutiyet street profiles, which later became offices for doctors and lawyers due to high rents, have changed; Patisserie’s customer portfolio has also changed. When doctors and lawyers went to the office and court house very early in the morning, they always had something like pastries and rolls for breakfast. That means retail, of course. It has been providing catering services for over 20 years. It’s certainly third-generation skills; Such as arranging cakes, creating new flavors, adhering to European standards, trying new recipes. However, perhaps 150 people came to this store from their hometown Çankırı / Orta and became masters of flour and pastries. Thanks to this store, there are now four patisseries in Orta district with a population of 13,000.

Sejen and Sinan; Both are in their mid-thirties and college graduates. Atila Bay is their uncle. He could not attract his own children to the patisserie; They were not involved in other fields like education and finance. Sinan Geophysics Engineer; Sejen graduated from the Faculty of Science. They say, “This cannot be done without love.” Even then, with the old habit, Mr. Atilla opened the shop at 05:00 in the morning. Even the master was coming at 07:00.

I’ve been here since morning. It is very difficult to leave the scent and Mr. Atila’s warm conversation.

It’s noon. I know that soon the catering customers here will be full and there will be no seating. From morning, cakes and pastries are on the counter from the oven; From bench to box; It flows from the box to the customers in a chain. When the meal is over, the bakery products will come out in the evening. Tea, coffee, lemonade and eclairs are zigzagged on the table by waiters.

Thanks to everyone for the cake-like conversation. They say, “Always come, don’t stop …” Who knows, maybe tomorrow I’ll get a tart from the fourth generation. Stay delicious, Bosphorus, what is left to say dahlia?

Ozlem Kalkan

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